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The coastline of the North Pacific can have several ecosystems within close proximity of each other. We have walked from tidal beaches, through bog and marshlands into old growth rainforest in just a few hundred feet. Given that the many of the fjord-like channels have sheer rock faces measuring a thousand feet or more both above and below the waterline, alpine growing conditions can exist only a short distance from the shoreline.
On the rocky islands which lie along the exposed outer coast twisted and stunted trees on the western side of the island may protect a fragile micro-climate pocketed on the lee side. At other locations Salal, muskeg and tree branches intertwine forming an impenetrable barrier to the land right at the water's edge. Muskeg, is a term referring to areas frequently seen along the northern part of the coast. It comprises of scrub forests with a profusion of plants, rocks, peat bogs, streams and small ponds.
The floor of the old-growth and temperate rainforests are slightly more accommodating with their shading canopy above and spongy carpets of moss. Walking through them is a sublime experience. Shafts of light penetrate and light great masses of sword and Licorice Ferns, Wild Lily of the Valley and hanging mosses interspersed with multicoloured lichens and fungi. Huckleberry and blueberry bushes provide bears and humans with delicious nourishment. The great trees - cedar, fir, hemlock tower above reaching for the sun. Deciduous trees vie for a spot: maple, alder, sour cherry and ocean spray to name but a few. Rhododendrons and Azaleas add color and elegance with their distinctive flowers in the spring and early summer
Islands are also pierced with lakes and tidal lagoons which create their own micro-growth zones. Tidal lagoons may allow only a small boat to enter. Others may seem impossibly constricted at the entrance only to open up to a calm and serene 360 degree vista of pristine paradise. The water is often dark muskeg brown, rust or black which obscures the visiblity below the keel. Careful navigation is needed.
The tidal marshes found inside are often rampant with overhanging "Old Man's Beard" Lichen and exposed roots of trees and shrubs clinging to the rocky and mossy banks. Small gnarled trees and shrubs precariously cling to "nurse" logs jutting out over the water's edge. A closer look reveals the roots embedded into the rough, decaying bark. Over several years, this tenuous existence produces perfect natural bonsai wonders. Beautiful sprays of ferns and sedges grow along the banks. Bog Blueberry and Cranberry offer up tasty morsels for the observant individual. The musky scent, large leaves and distinctive brilliant yellow floral spike of the skunk cabbage is common shaded and boggy areas.
Where shallow, eel grass and algae touch the bottom of the dingy or kayak leaving a parted trail exposing myriads of clam shells and darting fish.
Others, fed by streams flowing through the muskeg have dark red-brown water preventing the explorer from sensing the depth of the water below.
Along rocky and low-lying islands where the salt spray blankets the shoreline during storms, plants have found ways to withstand this harsh environment. Tucked away from the wind or growing prostrate amongst rocks and flotsam numbers of interesting plant species flourish. Salal, Stonecrop, sedges, wild strawberries, saltwort (or sea asparagus), vetches and dune grasses are commonly seen.
Rocks and beaches sport numerous seaweeds. Long tendrils of bull kelp are often found on sandy beaches in tangles after a storm. These plants have a long history of use by the first nations people.
In open fields and small clearings, away from the harsh winds, we have also found native orchids, lilies, irises, sunflowers, violets and roses. Here too we see wild onions, carrots, peas, parsley and mint; members not always as edible as their cultivated cousins. Huckleberries, currants, and a variety of berries grow all along the coast and are relished by animals and travellers alike. |